Tuesday, December 22, 2009

Ice Queen?

The first time I was in South Africa doing an internship from June - August 2006 (South Africa's winter months) with Rich Products in Johannesburg, South Africa, everyone in the office was enamored by the snow that melted by the time it slowly made its way down to the pavement. It was the first snowfall in 25 years. I laughed at their child-like amazement- I mean, sure, snow was (and still is) pretty rare in Johannesburg, sitting at approximately 1,700 m. (just over 1 mile) in altitude, but let's be realistic: you put a girl from Buffalo ANYWHERE with snow, and nothing can really surprise her. Nevertheless, I will admit it was pretty cool to be there at the time.

Fast forward to July 2007. This time, I am in Buenos Aires, Argentina, taking a Spanish course during my summer break. It was getting so frigid that I would wear my Buffalo winter jacket and alpaca wool gloves outside just to get from place to place in the city. Before I knew it, I was looking at a light snowfall that suddenly turned into full on heavy snow falling, compact enough to build snowmen. This was the first time Buenos Aires had a snowfall since 1918- almost 90 years. Once again, I was there to witness it, experience it, take it all in.




Now here we are, 22 December 2009, in the Western Highlands of Guatemala in the department of San Marcos. Not only am I lucky enough to have a stunning view of Tajumulco (Central America's highest volcanic point at 4,220 m.) from my town, but from my front door step.

Just to give you all an idea of the Central American tropical paradise I have been living in the past sixteen months: I am nestled among mountains that abruptly plunge into twisting valleys. Each morning I wake up with the sun creeping its way into my room. I step out of my bed, covered in four layers of blankets, including a down comforter, and slip my moccasins over my thick wools socks. Hood over head and long underwear and sweatpants readjusted after a night's slumber, I climb out of bed and open my bedroom door to the courtyard to brave the cool morning air. The morning temperature ranges anywhere from 5°C to 10°C (41°F - 50°F). As I open my mouth to yawn, a stream of mist quickly escapes out of my mouth and disintegrates in the frigid air.

Did I mention I live at 2,280 m. (7,480 ft.)?

OK, so maybe it's not quite a tropical paradise... at all, actually. Every morning I muster up the courage to take a capricious warm shower under what I affectionately call my "suicide shower" (in reference to all the wires hanging astray above my head whilst showering). As soon as I'm finished, I immediately wrap a towel around my body and throw one over my wet hair and run into the sun out on the patio in an effort to warm up.

And I have officially woken up.

This morning I woke up at 6am for two meetings I had - one at 8am at the office, and then another one in a village about an hour's drive away for an inauguration of a school. Once I woke up, I decided to see how many clouds were out in an attempt to predict the weather, as it has been raining unseasonably for the past few days- extremely unusual, as it is now the second month of the dry season and thus should not be raining at all.

As I open my door, I'm shocked to see something I've never seen in over a year of being in my town: a snow-capped Tajumulco.

The news even made the front page of Guatemala's national paper, the Prensa Libre, and a YouTube video can also be found about the rare snowfall.

Snow in South Africa, Argentina, and now Guatemala. Coincidence? Perhaps... but as Guatemalans say, saber! (Who knows?)

But Ice Queen? I hardly think so. I'd just like to think of it as me ensuring that Guatemalans (and the odd PCV) in San Marcos can also enjoy a White Christmas.



Monday, December 14, 2009

12 Days of Christmas in Guatemala

On the 12th day of Christmas, Guatemala gave to me:

12 itchy flea bites,
11 ayudantes hassling,
10 lips a pointing,
9 awkward parties,
8 colleagues tardy,
7 fijese ques,
6 cups of sugar with coffee,
5 days of runs,
4 men ch-ch-ing,
3 days without water
2 hours waiting,
And a camioneta packed beyond its limit!

Friday, December 4, 2009

Top 10 Reasons Why Guatemala is Awesome - Revamped

10. Being called "bien gordita" (fat) is a compliment.

9. It's perfectly acceptable to own your own machete and walk around town with it hanging around your belt.

8. Procrastinate much? No tenga pena! Showing up 30 minutes late to a meeting will just give you some points for culturally integrating - and save you from waiting around for 30 minutes.

7. The first and most widely debated topic of any meeting is what the "refracción" (snack) will be. Can take up to 15 minutes (after waiting 30 minutes for the meeting to start).

6. After getting asked where in the US you are from, 1 out of 2 Guatemalans will say they have either been there or currently have a relative in the state.

5. Two words: Street food. Cheap, yet delicious. Stool test not included.

4. After being here for a while, you sit impatiently waiting for tortillas while your food gets cold because you can't eat without them.

3. You thought the first time you stepped up on that shiny yellow school bus in kindergarten was going to be cool- little did you know you would be on that very same bus 18 years later, in a different country and totally pimped out blasting anything from Celine Dion's "My Heart Will Go On" to Nigga's "Te Amo Tanto" - AND have to pay your fare to a guy who is best described as the Indiana Jones of Guatemalan transport while the bus barrels down the Inter-American highway at top speeds, securing your luggage on top of the bus.

2. Catching a ride in the back of a truck when the bus hasn't come by for hours is just doing what you need to do- even if it's with livestock.

and the No. 1 reason why Guatemala is awesome . . .

1. "Fíjese que . . ." can be used as an excuse for pretty much ANYTHING.