Saturday, June 26, 2010

An Alternative Way of Cooking

"Do what you can, with what you have, where you are." - Theodore Roosevelt


The last 22 months (a la grán...) that I have spent in Guatemala during my Peace Corps service have shaped me into the person I always wanted to become (read: I have not changed at all; rather, I have become more myself). I guess plopping you down in the middle of nowhere for two years can do that to you. But I don't want to get remotely philosophical with a title like "An Alternative Way of Cooking," so let's stop right there.

Of the innumerable life skills I have learnt whilst being down here, I have finally learnt how to cook. For those of you who have known me for quite a while, this truly is nothing short of a miracle, right? And for all of you who thought that the day would never come... well, I sure showed you.

And I'm not even talking about turning popcorn kernels and oil into light, fluffy deliciousness (no microwave required)- I'm talking about baking a cake without an oven.

Let me rephrase: with a Peace Corps oven.

Becoming a Peace Corps volunteer turned out to mean more than just learning an unorthodox amount of patience for people to show up for a meeting (waiting 2+ hours at times); it means doing without the many comforts and eases of home. And no, a Peace Corps oven isn't something that we get issued by Peace Corps before heading out to site... it's just a tuna can filled with water, a couple pots and pans placed over your burner, and voila.

And I'm not even kidding.

I was recently asked by some friends of mine to show them how to make carrot cake- a simple recipe with just one or two ingredients that can be found in San Marcos- the rest available in town.

The trick to this was that Fredy and Miriam didn't have a wood-burning stove as I had originally thought- just an open fire that they always cook on.

I was up for the challenge.



Getting the batter ready before adding in the carrots.


Peace Corps oven meets campo: I guess that's kind of redundant. I only had one baking pan, but since the recipe makes two cakes, we had to make do with what was available and use a smaller pot. From bottom to top: fire, comal (a flat surface on which tortillas are usually made), on which you place a tuna can filled with water, and then you place the pans with the batter in it, and cover that with a larger pot. And wait.


About 45 minutes later (normal baking time, even at high-altitude), the finished product.


Yum! Caleb couldn't wait to fill his tummy with pastel de zanahoria.


And if you thought that was cool, what to do if you've been out in the fields all day, and all you have with you are a few eggs, a plastic bag and some water from a nearby stream? No pot or pan to cook anything in.

Eat raw eggs? Nah, not if you're with a Guatemalan.

Fredy had told me when he used to go out and work in the fields with his father as an adolescent, his father would fill a plastic bag with water and eggs and then place the plastic bag over the fire for about ten minutes until the eggs were cooked.

I didn't want to believe him- how could a plastic bag full of water not melt when placed over hot coals or even a fire?

Since it had been well over ten years since Fredy had done this, we had to try a few times until we were finally successful.


Trial numero uno. Place eggs in bag and fill with water with no air in the bag.


The bag eventually broke from the pine needles- not the fire.


...and it slightly cooked.


String to tie the bag? No es necesario.


Doña Mercedes told us that we have to cover the water- and egg-filled bag with the coals. Sounds even nuttier, but mama knows best.


There was a small mishap with the second egg... it fell onto the ground while in the bag and was no longer of use for our experiment.


Egg number three. Will we just have an egg explode all over the kitchen or a fine hard-boiled egg? We shall see.


Whoops. We kind of forgot about the egg while preparing the cake batter, but luckily the egg was still intact.


Now that's what I call a boiled egg. Who needs a pot?

Even Lester was stunned by this marvel.

Saturday, June 12, 2010

Ambassadorial Visit

It is truly rare that an ambassador takes the time to visit communities, see Peace Corps volunteers' work and the people whom with they work alongside, learn an indigenous language- all for the sake of doing his job to the best of his ability. Guatemala is lucky to have an incredibly interested and literally out-going representative to Guatemala, Ambassador Stephen McFarland.

It is even enviable amongst Peace Corps volunteers when this-dare I say über cool- ambassador makes a visit to a PCV's site while on his way to or from official state business.

Comitancillo recently had the pleasure and privilege to host the Ambassador for a short, but action-packed visit, which started with a fashionably-late arrival... which was a blessing, kind of. Of the year and a half I have been a volunteer at AMMID, there has never been a problem with getting locked out of the office. Except on the day the ambassador to Guatemala comes to visit.

Solution? Break-in (and clean up all evidence ASAP). Desperate times call for desperate measures.


Erwin, one of the agriculture guys, breaks the window for us to host Amb. McFarland.


Isa giving Ambassador McFarland a reconocimiento from AMMID.


All right. Call me self-righteous or whatever, but you must admit that you would be pretty psyched if your ambassador bought a textile product from your women's groups that they made and you, yourself, designed. Awesome.


Shane, the dentist in town who opened the clinic the day Ambassador McFarland visited, had an impromptu cutting-duct-tape ceremony that was facilitated by the Ambassador's pocket knife. I must be honest and say I was a bit disappointed that Shane didn't use floss as his ribbon. :-(


Me, Charlie, Amb. McFarland, Lauren and Abby

Not that we already didn't know that Ambassador McFarland is an ace man, he brought each of us PCVs a plate of his famous home-made brownies all the way to San Marcos from Guatemala City. You really can't get any cooler than that.

Thursday, June 10, 2010

Guatemalan Birthdays

In Comitancillo, birthdays are not a particularly big celebratory occasion as it has become in the Western world; lavish parties with an assortment of decorations, finger foods, and a much-too-expensive birthday cake that contains over-processed cream that doesn't really taste like cream, but more like the container it actually came from.

In the association I have been assigned to, we celebrate a birthday every month or two. The last two birthdays celebrated were those of my site mate, Charlie's 24th, his counterpart, Erwin's 28th, and the accountant, Heidi's 25th.

Just like any other meeting in Guatemala, a detailed agenda is made.

  1. Objectives (Just in case someone forgot why they were attending the birthday party.)
  2. Mañanitas (Happy Birthday song)
  3. Space for Expression (This is where everyone goes around the table and basically says something nice about the person whose birthday is being celebrated. Afterwards, the person whose birthday is being celebrated says a general thanks to everyone and why they feel special.)
  4. Gift Giving (Everyone pools in Q10 to buy a birthday gift for each person, and then one person is selected to present the gift, usually requiring another short speech that includes "es muy sencillo, pero viene con todo el cariño de todo nosotros" it's a very small gift, but it comes with all the love from all of us"
  5. Hugs (Guatemala has an unfortunate tradition of giving very awkward hugs- usually a one-arm, pat on the back that lacks a good, tight squeeze of a real, meaningful, two-armed hearty hug.)
  6. Snack (A small sandwich with potato chips and hot chocolate with marshmallows.)
  7. Words of Thanks (Thanking everyone for coming to celebrate the birthdays and wishing the celebrated one more time.)

Rubén, the director, giving Heidi a one-armed hug.


Isa giving Carlitos his sencillo regalito.